Day 1 - 9:00 AM September 3rd 2015 and after 3 days of packing and repacking, trying to hit the target weight of 15kg for my mountain duffle bag (and failing every time) , I’m off. I say a hard good bye to my family and start my Journey, from Winsford, to Crewe then London Euston via Train, before finally jumping in a cab to Heathrow and awaiting the arrival of my travel partner Dee. We celebrate her safe arrival from Norwich with a beer or 5 then take an 8 hr flight to Kenya,
Day 2 – Sept 4th, then a 30 min flight to Tanzania .where we get our first view of the beast herself.
Day 2 – Sept 4th, then a 30 min flight to Tanzania .where we get our first view of the beast herself.
Seeing Kili in all her majestic glory really hits home, that our adventure has started. We breeze through customs and visa control and meet Rolfe and await the rest of the group who were on a later flight. When they are all through you realise how fortunate Dee and I were not to have lost any luggage during the journey as three of our new friends hadn’t been that lucky.
Our first insight into Tanzania comes with the journey to our hotel, it reminds you how lucky we are in the UK, however there are lots of happy waves and smiles, sent our way from the locals. One thing I was surprised at though was the bananas (that were for sale all down the road side) they were all so small, I just had expected them to be bigger?? (The small things you remember)
We settled in, met up for dinner and a briefing and began to get to know our new team mates, some hit if off straight away, others it took a while, little were we to know at this point that we were about to make new friends for life during our trek. An afternoon of free time then an evening meal and a night at the bar, Dee and I were getting a reputation of the last ones standing at the bar.
Day 3 - 5th Sept 2015 - Our real trek started the next day with a bus ride to Lemoshu gate to collect our guides, porters, chefs and invaluable toilet gents (thank you) and again bonds were made on the bus trip through Tanzania, we also got our first local toilet experience . (Well toilet in the loosest sense of the word?)
Our first insight into Tanzania comes with the journey to our hotel, it reminds you how lucky we are in the UK, however there are lots of happy waves and smiles, sent our way from the locals. One thing I was surprised at though was the bananas (that were for sale all down the road side) they were all so small, I just had expected them to be bigger?? (The small things you remember)
We settled in, met up for dinner and a briefing and began to get to know our new team mates, some hit if off straight away, others it took a while, little were we to know at this point that we were about to make new friends for life during our trek. An afternoon of free time then an evening meal and a night at the bar, Dee and I were getting a reputation of the last ones standing at the bar.
Day 3 - 5th Sept 2015 - Our real trek started the next day with a bus ride to Lemoshu gate to collect our guides, porters, chefs and invaluable toilet gents (thank you) and again bonds were made on the bus trip through Tanzania, we also got our first local toilet experience . (Well toilet in the loosest sense of the word?)
A little gutted that we had to miss the rain forest / jungle part of the climb due to conservation issues we start our real trek on the Shira Plateaux. A gentle three hour walk to our first camp gets us acclimatised, I start where I mean to go on, shorts for as long as possible. When we reach our camp I have a slight headache and was a little out of breath from climbing the ravine into the camp but that soon disappears. We are welcomed by our amazing local team with our first taste of the Jambo mambo song. One world Brilliant
Sadly no view of Kili due to the weather on the way to camp , but then we see her. Wow. The food in camp was, every night, amazing. One of the many things I will take away with me is the amazing Star show every night. First we are enthralled by sunset then the sheer greatness of stars. Each time you look up you see more and more stars when your eyes become accustomed to the dark it's like a black cloth with millions of twinkling diamonds, amazing. I promised my boys back home that every night I would wish them good night to the brightest star, that could be a problem they are all bright.
Day 4 - 6th Sept 2015 - After a long restless night, dull headache, and nausea, little sleep was the last thing I wanted before experiencing the Long drop for the first time, the decision was soon made toilet tents from now on. (Thank you to the two amazing guys who made them possible up the mountain, heroes) . A 4 hr walk today, fellow trekker Ravi really suffered today with nausea and cramps, on the other hand 75 year old Stefano was relentless, leading the group all the way, on a very warm day. Dee and I decided on an extra bit of walking today as we explored the lava hills around our camp after we had settled in at midday. Walk high sleep low let's hope those extra few Meters we did gets us some sleep tonight. I joined the card crew today for the first time, great to bond and enjoyed a hearty laughter session. Again when it came to dinner, how these chefs make food like this so high up I will never know soup for starters then fish for main, we are 3800m where did the fish come from? Today was Adrians birthday and the chefs surpassed themselves they baked a cake…..with no oven. Cake and champagne 2/3 of the way up Kilimanjaro, I’m sure I’m not dreaming
Day 4 - 6th Sept 2015 - After a long restless night, dull headache, and nausea, little sleep was the last thing I wanted before experiencing the Long drop for the first time, the decision was soon made toilet tents from now on. (Thank you to the two amazing guys who made them possible up the mountain, heroes) . A 4 hr walk today, fellow trekker Ravi really suffered today with nausea and cramps, on the other hand 75 year old Stefano was relentless, leading the group all the way, on a very warm day. Dee and I decided on an extra bit of walking today as we explored the lava hills around our camp after we had settled in at midday. Walk high sleep low let's hope those extra few Meters we did gets us some sleep tonight. I joined the card crew today for the first time, great to bond and enjoyed a hearty laughter session. Again when it came to dinner, how these chefs make food like this so high up I will never know soup for starters then fish for main, we are 3800m where did the fish come from? Today was Adrians birthday and the chefs surpassed themselves they baked a cake…..with no oven. Cake and champagne 2/3 of the way up Kilimanjaro, I’m sure I’m not dreaming
The support team really showed a rival trekking team how to entertain, after the cake a rendition of song and dance, these guys are just brilliant. Trekkers from other groups stopped what they were doing to come and watch. After it all settled down (Dee and I shared our champagne with our porters they deserved a bottle each never mind a cup full) it was time for a few more games of Trumps then bed for the 6 am start. One thing I had noticed was the numerous times we were having to get up for night "wee’s" so we were learning to go as often as we could prior to bed last trip for the night, could we make it through without getting up….. no.
Day 5 (September 7th 2015) – Another night of very little sleep, I Know I got a little Dee said she heard snoring for the first time, phew. I’d heard the long drop had a proper toilet seat in one so worth a “look” before the long walk, OMG the smell was horrendous. Without going into details yes a seat but lots of people had struggled to hit the target. Exit, & breath take in the mountain air clear the nostrils and enjoy sausage eggs and pancakes for breakfast. We are treated today to amazing views of not only Kili but Mara too. She reaches for the African heavens through a sea of cotton wool, if you take a moment you realise what a truly special place this is. Hard going today, very slow (takes a while to get into the slow walking pace over here) very warm and it's going to get very high .
Day 5 (September 7th 2015) – Another night of very little sleep, I Know I got a little Dee said she heard snoring for the first time, phew. I’d heard the long drop had a proper toilet seat in one so worth a “look” before the long walk, OMG the smell was horrendous. Without going into details yes a seat but lots of people had struggled to hit the target. Exit, & breath take in the mountain air clear the nostrils and enjoy sausage eggs and pancakes for breakfast. We are treated today to amazing views of not only Kili but Mara too. She reaches for the African heavens through a sea of cotton wool, if you take a moment you realise what a truly special place this is. Hard going today, very slow (takes a while to get into the slow walking pace over here) very warm and it's going to get very high .
The headache started as a dull throb after a few hours walking towards our lunchtime destination, Lava Tower. It got progressively worse as the morning went on I was delaying taking anything until it got really bad, my thoughts were the longer I delay the more pain relief the more I will have in back up if it gets bad. It felt like a 4 day binge hangover by the time we could see our destination in the distance and I’ve never felt pressure like it on my forehead. At about 4400m it became really bad , the nauseous feeling too had intensified at this point. Dee had now noticed that I had gone, in her words “unusually quiet” and I was in no uncertain words told off for not taking pain relief. I thought about it but decided stubbornly to wait until we got to lunch camp. The long walk up to the lava tower was getting hard though and for the first time I started to drop back from the front and walked into camp at the tail end of the group. Gary, I think was suffering in the same way I was at this point and it was the first time we had really caught up the chatting took both our minds off the discomfort I think. I think this was the first of many times during the trek that I thought Pops (Stefano) was amazing. So into camp, pain relief time, in future listen to Dee take early, 2 paracetamol and 2 ibuprofen together, is that allowed , I don’t know and didn’t care the headache and nausea were subsiding that was the important thing. Next decision Lava tower or not ? An amazing structure 200 or 400 m high I can’t actually remember I just know it looked high. Rolfe explained that anyone doing this extra bit if they injured themselves it would probably be outside the travel insurance cover, that it was grade 2 or 3 scrambling and there was no going back after it was started.
If one stopped everyone stopped. I did consider it but then my mind wandered back to home and my little boys, it was a danger I couldn’t justify also I didn’t want to ruin it for everyone else if my fear of heights had stopped others completing the tower that wouldn’t have been fair.
I thought that while the 7 or 8 people did the Tower climb we would all relax and get our breath back how wrong, once diner was done (this helped me feel better too, hard forcing down food when feeling nauseous but it was the best thing to do) we were off , they will catch us up said Eric our guide. After getting the headache on the way up I was having self doubts as to whether I would be able to reach the summit, if I struggled at this height, Dee was up a Lava Tower so I was without my “whipping Stick” I had a photo of my boys in my pocket and their present (a St Christopher) around my neck, I knew it was up to myself to pull out of these thoughts before they took over. To be honest it was easier than I thought to “ get my head Straight” the scenery on the way down to our camp was spectacular and the voice from the heavens, oh hang on that’s Dee and the gang behind us on top of the Lava Tower, what a view they had. We had an amazing view too of the length not just the height of the tower it stretched down the mountain like a rocky road.
On the way to camp we were entertained by the “English Accents” our guides Mousa and Eric loved to do “Cup of Tea anyone”. After a long walk down through greener surroundings than we had seen for a few days we saw camp in the distance but we also got a glimpse of the “path” up the baranco wall our route tomorrow , one word, WOW. After about 30 minutes in camp we were joined by the Lava towers great to have the group back as one.
If one stopped everyone stopped. I did consider it but then my mind wandered back to home and my little boys, it was a danger I couldn’t justify also I didn’t want to ruin it for everyone else if my fear of heights had stopped others completing the tower that wouldn’t have been fair.
I thought that while the 7 or 8 people did the Tower climb we would all relax and get our breath back how wrong, once diner was done (this helped me feel better too, hard forcing down food when feeling nauseous but it was the best thing to do) we were off , they will catch us up said Eric our guide. After getting the headache on the way up I was having self doubts as to whether I would be able to reach the summit, if I struggled at this height, Dee was up a Lava Tower so I was without my “whipping Stick” I had a photo of my boys in my pocket and their present (a St Christopher) around my neck, I knew it was up to myself to pull out of these thoughts before they took over. To be honest it was easier than I thought to “ get my head Straight” the scenery on the way down to our camp was spectacular and the voice from the heavens, oh hang on that’s Dee and the gang behind us on top of the Lava Tower, what a view they had. We had an amazing view too of the length not just the height of the tower it stretched down the mountain like a rocky road.
On the way to camp we were entertained by the “English Accents” our guides Mousa and Eric loved to do “Cup of Tea anyone”. After a long walk down through greener surroundings than we had seen for a few days we saw camp in the distance but we also got a glimpse of the “path” up the baranco wall our route tomorrow , one word, WOW. After about 30 minutes in camp we were joined by the Lava towers great to have the group back as one.
First phone signal for days so a chance to speak to Helen and the boys, its only been a few days but the emotion took over when I heard their voices. My amazing family 1000’s of miles away, the boys watching Scooby Doo being interrupted by dad on the phone, to be young and innocent again. I told them I loved them asked Helen to kiss them and told them daddy was going to climb a mountain and be home soon. With that the signal dropped out and I spent a little time composing myself before I returned to “Uno”. How have I never played this game before!. The views here in camp of the wall, kili and at night Moshi were some of the best we had all trek, when the cloud rolled into the valley if felt very eerie and desolate, but as soon as it arrived it blew through and there was Kili in all her glory. By 9pm everyone was ready for bed ahead of us tomorrow Baranco wall awaited us.
Day 6 (September 8th 2015) I felt tired today but my headache was almost gone I felt positive and bring on the wall was all I was thinking. “ paracetamol with breakfast, I wasn’t waiting for the headache today. We had decided to delay setting off up the wall today because of the sheer number of people at the camp site it was like a small town and as we ate breakfast we watched the ant like chain climb the side of the mountain, maybe just one more pancake before we set off.
Baranco Wall, what can I say , well actually it wasn’t as daunting as the long drop toilets. Oh My God how do people miss their target ? And the smell, there are no words to describe! So back to the wall, yes its steep, and a scramble at times but because the pace was “poli poli” physically I don’t think anyone had a problem. There were a few hairy moments but the view that awaited us at the top of the wall was amazing. Mount Kilimanjaro is all her glory.
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Day 6 (September 8th 2015) I felt tired today but my headache was almost gone I felt positive and bring on the wall was all I was thinking. “ paracetamol with breakfast, I wasn’t waiting for the headache today. We had decided to delay setting off up the wall today because of the sheer number of people at the camp site it was like a small town and as we ate breakfast we watched the ant like chain climb the side of the mountain, maybe just one more pancake before we set off.
Baranco Wall, what can I say , well actually it wasn’t as daunting as the long drop toilets. Oh My God how do people miss their target ? And the smell, there are no words to describe! So back to the wall, yes its steep, and a scramble at times but because the pace was “poli poli” physically I don’t think anyone had a problem. There were a few hairy moments but the view that awaited us at the top of the wall was amazing. Mount Kilimanjaro is all her glory.
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Time for a breather and lots of photos on top of the wall before the long slog down and we would soon discover a long way back up to karanga Huts. Before we set off though we met up again with a fellow trekker who will always be known as Bearded Man. We first saw him back at Kenya Airport, he told us his name, I never remembered it to us he was bearded Man.
(He’d grown it for 10 years)
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(He’d grown it for 10 years)
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So after the elation of making it to the top of Baranco Wall and standing in awe of Kilimanjaro it was time to make the long slog down and up ( along way up) to camp karanga. On route we enjoyed the thrill of land skiing down dirt tracks, never been so glad to wear a buff the dust got every where. As we came round one of the dirt track slides we saw the climb we needed to make to camp, one word wow! This is turns out was the last water source before our trek up to our final camp any water we needed from here on, the incredible porters would have to transport up, everyday these guys amazed us more and more, and the one thing they always did,”Smile”. After the lung busting slog up the mountain side it was time to relax, Uno was played , a lot, and the food was, wait for it, amazing. Sunset here was so earie and silent it was as though the mountain was saying you are almost there now but I’m still in control.
Day 7 (9th Sept) Its Summit day, well it will be later, 11:55pm, when we will be getting up to leave camp to make our final assent! First we need to get to Barafu camp (High Camp) it’s a short day , not a long walk from Karanga, and everyone seems to be in high spirits. Its quite a steep climb to Barafu and possibly one of the least tidy camps to be honest when we get there. A strong smell of urine behind every stone on the initial walk through. As always Christophe and Samsun are waiting ( their tasks doubled today as they were also part of the water team bringing water from way down below our previous nights camp) to take our bag and make sure we are settled in, it never gets tiring to call these guys incredible. An afternoon of chilling , food and sleep before tea. We all know we really need a few hours afternoon sleep time, easier said than done. I think I managed about 2 hrs , Dee said there was snoring !
A little worryingly Adrian is not himself and his oxygen sats are quite low. Mine were averaging early 80’s, to give a guide Rolfe (who lives at altitude) never went below 97%, Dee, the machine 96 % ! Tea is as always incredible over 4500m and the food our team prepared was unbelievable. Only a few stayed up much after dinner and even we didn’t stay that long summit night/day was only hours away. Next to mine and Dee’s tent was Adrian, he had now developed a cough and it didn’t sound like it was getting better. We all prayed it would ease off and he would be ready for midnight. Sleep was hard, nervous excitement and cold, cold like you have never felt before, at 11:45pm Dee and I decided that the body heat in our tent was no longer enough and we got dressed, with everything we had available. Outside the tent I believe it was -15.
Day 8 ,Thursday 10th September- Summit Day
Up until this point I have walked everyday in shorts, that ends here. Standing outside our tents wearing all our coats and my thermal leggings under my winter trousers at 12:05am and eating ginger nuts for breakfast, at first everyone is quiet, and then as the tea warms us the excited chatter starts. Everyone prepares , from Toilet Tent visits, to what to wear, to checking we have water and food to hand. This is it !
Then I’m not sure who but someone tells us to look up, it’s a snake of lights (head torches) making their way up the mountain, now its real, that s along way off and a lot of headtorches. Rolfe tells us to strip down a little and pack our bigger coats, we are about to start and he says it won’t be long before we warm up, a little. Pack light we are told, with water food and extra layers my bag was already heavy, now with my Polar coat in there it feels like I’m carrying a baby elephant. The walk out of camp is very very steep and slow going its still soooo cold and hard to get your breath, worryingly this is just the start, I need to get mentally on this and quick. After a while (I’ve no idea how long) we appear in what looks like another camp, yes tents are all around us illuminated by our head torches, another camp site High (high) camp! Its just a plod now , very dark and very cold ,I’ve already taken paracetamol before we set off but already a headache is growing, we stop for drinks a few times, but every time we do it gets colder quicker. I’ve lent Dee my thick gloves but after the third stop I have to have them back my hands were burning with cold. I think someone said at one point on Summit Morning it was as cold as -25 with wind chill. Its not long before my water pipe freezes only a 1lt drinks container now for the next 8 hrs maybe.
After a while it really does seem a blur, just memories of walking slowly, thinking one foot after another it’s not brain surgery its just walking, walking very slowly how hard can this be? I remember the start of the night being chatty and humorous (no walking 20 Question games though as on previous days), I remember Rolfe telling Ryan, “Sticks are for using not carrying now get out of line and unpack them” as Mike walks past with his sticks stowed happily on his back pack? I remember it being very dark and talking to Dee, who actually wasn’t there (as a porter asked who I was talking to??) I remember the cold , so cold like your fingers were being burned with hot needles ( Thanks Bear, Born Survivor show, move your fingers circulate the blood it soon warms them up) I remember thinking I can’t do this I’m done, mentally I was beaten ….until my saviour…a porter with a cup of tea! 5000M up a mountain in Africa and my new best friend offers me a cup of sugary Tea, I thought yep go on I’ll drink this and head down.
Tea has never tasted so good, now I may have the timeline wrong I was slightly delirious at this point ( There were conversations I was having that at the same time I was speaking I felt like I was looking in on that very conversation from above and observing myself and fellow trekkers talking?) but I seem to remember as I drank my amber nectar, aka Tea, and the sun started to rise. Slowly at first like a small glowing boiled egg, through fluffy fields of cotton wool, “how was that wool not catching fire”, seriously I asked myself that, then the sky got lighter a mountain in the distance, below us, was engulfed in all the glory of the African Sun Rise, I was not going to be beaten, people had backed me to do this challenge with their hard earned money, my boys and Helen were back home, Daddy wasn’t a quitter , daddy was their hero! Oh and Dee , who was actually really there this time, told me she would kick my ass up the rest of the mountain if she had to.
A little worryingly Adrian is not himself and his oxygen sats are quite low. Mine were averaging early 80’s, to give a guide Rolfe (who lives at altitude) never went below 97%, Dee, the machine 96 % ! Tea is as always incredible over 4500m and the food our team prepared was unbelievable. Only a few stayed up much after dinner and even we didn’t stay that long summit night/day was only hours away. Next to mine and Dee’s tent was Adrian, he had now developed a cough and it didn’t sound like it was getting better. We all prayed it would ease off and he would be ready for midnight. Sleep was hard, nervous excitement and cold, cold like you have never felt before, at 11:45pm Dee and I decided that the body heat in our tent was no longer enough and we got dressed, with everything we had available. Outside the tent I believe it was -15.
Day 8 ,Thursday 10th September- Summit Day
Up until this point I have walked everyday in shorts, that ends here. Standing outside our tents wearing all our coats and my thermal leggings under my winter trousers at 12:05am and eating ginger nuts for breakfast, at first everyone is quiet, and then as the tea warms us the excited chatter starts. Everyone prepares , from Toilet Tent visits, to what to wear, to checking we have water and food to hand. This is it !
Then I’m not sure who but someone tells us to look up, it’s a snake of lights (head torches) making their way up the mountain, now its real, that s along way off and a lot of headtorches. Rolfe tells us to strip down a little and pack our bigger coats, we are about to start and he says it won’t be long before we warm up, a little. Pack light we are told, with water food and extra layers my bag was already heavy, now with my Polar coat in there it feels like I’m carrying a baby elephant. The walk out of camp is very very steep and slow going its still soooo cold and hard to get your breath, worryingly this is just the start, I need to get mentally on this and quick. After a while (I’ve no idea how long) we appear in what looks like another camp, yes tents are all around us illuminated by our head torches, another camp site High (high) camp! Its just a plod now , very dark and very cold ,I’ve already taken paracetamol before we set off but already a headache is growing, we stop for drinks a few times, but every time we do it gets colder quicker. I’ve lent Dee my thick gloves but after the third stop I have to have them back my hands were burning with cold. I think someone said at one point on Summit Morning it was as cold as -25 with wind chill. Its not long before my water pipe freezes only a 1lt drinks container now for the next 8 hrs maybe.
After a while it really does seem a blur, just memories of walking slowly, thinking one foot after another it’s not brain surgery its just walking, walking very slowly how hard can this be? I remember the start of the night being chatty and humorous (no walking 20 Question games though as on previous days), I remember Rolfe telling Ryan, “Sticks are for using not carrying now get out of line and unpack them” as Mike walks past with his sticks stowed happily on his back pack? I remember it being very dark and talking to Dee, who actually wasn’t there (as a porter asked who I was talking to??) I remember the cold , so cold like your fingers were being burned with hot needles ( Thanks Bear, Born Survivor show, move your fingers circulate the blood it soon warms them up) I remember thinking I can’t do this I’m done, mentally I was beaten ….until my saviour…a porter with a cup of tea! 5000M up a mountain in Africa and my new best friend offers me a cup of sugary Tea, I thought yep go on I’ll drink this and head down.
Tea has never tasted so good, now I may have the timeline wrong I was slightly delirious at this point ( There were conversations I was having that at the same time I was speaking I felt like I was looking in on that very conversation from above and observing myself and fellow trekkers talking?) but I seem to remember as I drank my amber nectar, aka Tea, and the sun started to rise. Slowly at first like a small glowing boiled egg, through fluffy fields of cotton wool, “how was that wool not catching fire”, seriously I asked myself that, then the sky got lighter a mountain in the distance, below us, was engulfed in all the glory of the African Sun Rise, I was not going to be beaten, people had backed me to do this challenge with their hard earned money, my boys and Helen were back home, Daddy wasn’t a quitter , daddy was their hero! Oh and Dee , who was actually really there this time, told me she would kick my ass up the rest of the mountain if she had to.
With the sun now up the rest of our task could be seen, the crater rim was in sight, but still (I think) at least an hour and half away. The cup of Tea had helped, the fact a porter had refused to let me carry my rucksack any further did too, he wouldn’t give it me back until we returned back down to camp, (I say it again these guys are incredible) but I was still reaching my limit. I have never felt so drunk, but sober and hungover at the same time, the nausea was unbearable ( In the back of my mind is the conversation Rolfe had had with us the day before saying that over 50% of people on summit day will vomit, I hate vomiting that wasn’t happening) the headache and light headedness was reaching critical (or that’s how I felt).
Amazingly I don’t actually ever remember feeling out of breath? Slowly but surely the crater rim was getting closer though, my poles were my saviour now, I was taking it out on them, slamming them into the mountain with every stride( I was literally banging the poles into the mountain to the beat of my music), and remembering what my mate Chris had said before I left home, “It’s one step after another that’s all”. I touched my pocket everytime I felt like quitting that was where the photo of my boys was, and around my neck their present, a St. Christopher, their love was now my strength! I was now in touching distance of the crater Rim and the sign, I’d caught Dee up , or had she waited for me, whichever it was we started together so we were going to finish together, arm in arm we summited the crater Rim and saw the sign, we’d done it, well actually no this was the fake summit!
Amazingly I don’t actually ever remember feeling out of breath? Slowly but surely the crater rim was getting closer though, my poles were my saviour now, I was taking it out on them, slamming them into the mountain with every stride( I was literally banging the poles into the mountain to the beat of my music), and remembering what my mate Chris had said before I left home, “It’s one step after another that’s all”. I touched my pocket everytime I felt like quitting that was where the photo of my boys was, and around my neck their present, a St. Christopher, their love was now my strength! I was now in touching distance of the crater Rim and the sign, I’d caught Dee up , or had she waited for me, whichever it was we started together so we were going to finish together, arm in arm we summited the crater Rim and saw the sign, we’d done it, well actually no this was the fake summit!
From elation to heartache you can actually see the real summit over my left shoulder, at least 40 minutes away, I had used every ounce of energy to get to this point how could I do another 40 minutes and the small ups and downs around the crater rim looked like mini Everest’s to me at this point.
I was determined to make it but it was going to be a long hard slog and I was going to have to go at my pace. I told Dee to go ahead and I’d catch her up, her last words were “don’t you dare give up!” One foot after another slowly but surely I was getting there, I didn’t take in any of the views at this point, my focus The Summit Sign. Walk for a minute rest for a minute walk for a minute climb a hill rest for a minute was I getting closer it didn’t feel like it but I was. I was passing people who looked in worse states than me, a few were being carried on the shoulders of porters, if I was going to get there it was going to under my own steam all the way.
It’s hard to describe how I felt at this point, but let’s just say it wasn’t good I’d already hit my wall twice a third time and I wasn’t sure I’d get over it. As corny as it sounds on the climb up when I really needed inspiration fate had delivered it, on the last few hard meters to the fake summit the “Rocky theme tune” had started to play on my mp3 now when I was well and truly spent on the last peak around the crater rim before the true summit, the Top Gun Theme. Now look I know they aren’t the greatest songs of all time but to me they are motivational classics and they gave me that little jolt I really needed. The Summit sign was in touching distance, I’d done it, and I’d reached the summit of Africa! I was spent and emotionally I’m not ashamed to say it was too much I collapsed to one knee and cried, friends were congratulating me strangers too, I just needed a minute to compose myself, and then photo and video time.
I have never used so much physical and mental energy, this was the hardest thing I had ever done in my life, but I’d done it.
I was determined to make it but it was going to be a long hard slog and I was going to have to go at my pace. I told Dee to go ahead and I’d catch her up, her last words were “don’t you dare give up!” One foot after another slowly but surely I was getting there, I didn’t take in any of the views at this point, my focus The Summit Sign. Walk for a minute rest for a minute walk for a minute climb a hill rest for a minute was I getting closer it didn’t feel like it but I was. I was passing people who looked in worse states than me, a few were being carried on the shoulders of porters, if I was going to get there it was going to under my own steam all the way.
It’s hard to describe how I felt at this point, but let’s just say it wasn’t good I’d already hit my wall twice a third time and I wasn’t sure I’d get over it. As corny as it sounds on the climb up when I really needed inspiration fate had delivered it, on the last few hard meters to the fake summit the “Rocky theme tune” had started to play on my mp3 now when I was well and truly spent on the last peak around the crater rim before the true summit, the Top Gun Theme. Now look I know they aren’t the greatest songs of all time but to me they are motivational classics and they gave me that little jolt I really needed. The Summit sign was in touching distance, I’d done it, and I’d reached the summit of Africa! I was spent and emotionally I’m not ashamed to say it was too much I collapsed to one knee and cried, friends were congratulating me strangers too, I just needed a minute to compose myself, and then photo and video time.
I have never used so much physical and mental energy, this was the hardest thing I had ever done in my life, but I’d done it.
Now mentally I found myself thinking I’m going to be ok, this is the highest point now, any walking is going to be down, and with each step more oxygen, so with each step I will feel better, but for now I’m on top of Africa I’m going to enjoy it ! Photos taken with friends, porters, random strangers, video blogs recorded once I’d composed myself enough (also known as stopped crying, it took 4 attempts) and the views taken in! A word that may have been used already wow! Amazing! Spectacular! Just simply awe-inspiring!
Now for the first time I really appreciated the scale of the glacier, that sadly at current global warming rates will be gone in 15 years. My one regret was not getting down to it (I don’t know if you were allowed to, some of the porters went, but none of the “tourists”?)
Now for the first time I really appreciated the scale of the glacier, that sadly at current global warming rates will be gone in 15 years. My one regret was not getting down to it (I don’t know if you were allowed to, some of the porters went, but none of the “tourists”?)
I’m not sure if I have told you about Stefano our 75 year old fellow trekker but just when you think someone can’t amaze you any more he goes and does just that. All the way through our journey he has been a rock, always leading the way, always jovial, and always with a supply of Swiss chocolate, now on the top of Kilimanjaro he tells us he’s doing this for all pacemaker patients, as he’s just had one fitted! One word Hero!
So top of Africa conquered time to make our way down. You forget with all the adrenalin how wasted you actually are, before the full decent it’s time for lunch at the false summit. By the time Dee and I got there though everyone else was getting ready to go, from what I remember we had a quick bite and drink (my water pipe was still frozen, my litre bottle empty a long time ago thankfully the porters found me water …..On top of a volcano??)
We shared our lunch (actually isn’t it breakfast time?) with our porters and then it was time to go. To be honest I really didn’t feel like eating and it was a struggle, my adrenalin was rapidly dispersing and I started to feel really bad again. On the way up the mountain had been frozen, now though it was a scree ski slope. Slowly initially, I started my decent. I saw people literally skiing (just on their feet with walking poles) down the mountain, to be fair I admit I’ve never had the best balance, but I thought the quicker I get down, the better I will feel, so gave it ago. Slowly at first then my confidence grew, and I got faster, I was a downhill skier, or so I thought in my delusional state. I’m not sure if I have mentioned my guide/porter enough it is to my shame that I truly cannot remember his name but he was a total legend, and when my skiing expertise was found out, yes I fell and cracked my head hard he wouldn’t let me ski alone until he was sure I was ok. It must have been a wired sightseeing me and him arm in arm scree skiing?
Now you would think just slipping down a mountain wouldn’t be physical, let me tell you my heart was trying to escape out of my chest like I’d run a mile in 100m record time. It was scree ski, stop and breath, then go again, and still my guide stuck with me, Thank you! I think we passed Oli and Richard then saw Rolfe but apart from that until we caught up with Mike it was just strangers we passed. I was still amazed how many people in a very bad way we passed, who were being carried, on piggy back, not down but up, and I mean these people were in a very bad way. It made you realise even more how capable the hands we were in with the 360 team.
That reminds me earlier in the trek we had passed an Asian gentleman who (after baranco wall I think) had a slight headache and had had enough, he wanted airlifting out, the response not a problem it would take around about 7 hours to get here, if they could talk the Tanzanian air space authorities to allow a Kenyan chopper in and would probably cost (I think) around about £10 Grand…. It may have been twenty! He walked out, and down.
Even though we were heading down this was the first time I’d felt out of breath today, the long day was taking its toll, at one point we actually saw our camp, it was miles away. The fastest down to basecamp I believe was about 1 ¼ hours at that point I wasn’t even a third of the way. My porter kept finding me water, how I don’t know. We eventually scrambled down the rocks to the high camp we had gone through in the early hours, our camp was only about 30 mins from here, “home” was almost in touching distance.
As we approached camp we were met by Christoph and Samson with orange juice , I gave mine to my guide, he’d carried my bags and supported me up and down and still wouldn’t have a drop until I’d drank, people back home could learn a lot from these guys.
Camp, tent, Dee, fellow 360 trekkers, it was amazing to see them all, but I just wanted to sleep I collapsed in my tent, and before I even had chance to sleep Dee dragged me out (thanks chappers) for lunch I couldn’t tell you what it was I was wasted and ate and went back to my tent just to get 30 mins before I had to pack up I couldn’t believe it, I’d forgotten we were leaving for the lower camp today! I felt sorry for Olli no sooner had he got back we were off, I seem to remember he wasn’t best pleased.
Now I felt physically tired and still nauseous but had great friends around to pick up my mood. We set off and started the long walk to our final campsite. We were still on Kilimanjaro and the terrain was very rocky, we kept passing random abandoned wooden stretcher like vehicles with two wheels, a lot of them.(It turns out they were actually rescue stretchers, health and safety would have loved them)
Eventually the rocky landscape started to get greener and in the distance we saw the roofs of the building at our campsite, they just didn’t seem to get any closer no matter how far we walked.
When we eventually saw our tents they were a welcome relief, and we’d heard the camp manager may have a stash of beer. Sadly it turned out he only had bags of clear liquid, we all decided to wait one more day until back at the hotel. As was the norm now we had great banter in camp, food and cards and tonight reflection on what we had done, not surprisingly though everyone was soon in bed.
Day 9 Friday 11th September, The last morning under canvas and Kili was seen in all her glory, what a sight, the plan today was to get down as quick as possible, and celebrate. We were going to drop around 2000m today, I’d later discover this to be harder than I thought. We started out on flat terrain that soon started to drop away steeper and quicker and very uneven, Rolfe had warned us to eventually watch out for spikes that had held steps in place, when we found them we were glad he’d warned us. One word Lethal. Dirt tracks became rainforest steps that just seemed to infinitely drop down. It started to get foggy, no that was cloud we were descending through cloud.
We passed lots of groups taking it slowly, some of whom we had seen on summit day, one of which we heard say, look a group of old people, they must be parents, well this group of old people and parents has just kicked your arse on the downward trek.
So top of Africa conquered time to make our way down. You forget with all the adrenalin how wasted you actually are, before the full decent it’s time for lunch at the false summit. By the time Dee and I got there though everyone else was getting ready to go, from what I remember we had a quick bite and drink (my water pipe was still frozen, my litre bottle empty a long time ago thankfully the porters found me water …..On top of a volcano??)
We shared our lunch (actually isn’t it breakfast time?) with our porters and then it was time to go. To be honest I really didn’t feel like eating and it was a struggle, my adrenalin was rapidly dispersing and I started to feel really bad again. On the way up the mountain had been frozen, now though it was a scree ski slope. Slowly initially, I started my decent. I saw people literally skiing (just on their feet with walking poles) down the mountain, to be fair I admit I’ve never had the best balance, but I thought the quicker I get down, the better I will feel, so gave it ago. Slowly at first then my confidence grew, and I got faster, I was a downhill skier, or so I thought in my delusional state. I’m not sure if I have mentioned my guide/porter enough it is to my shame that I truly cannot remember his name but he was a total legend, and when my skiing expertise was found out, yes I fell and cracked my head hard he wouldn’t let me ski alone until he was sure I was ok. It must have been a wired sightseeing me and him arm in arm scree skiing?
Now you would think just slipping down a mountain wouldn’t be physical, let me tell you my heart was trying to escape out of my chest like I’d run a mile in 100m record time. It was scree ski, stop and breath, then go again, and still my guide stuck with me, Thank you! I think we passed Oli and Richard then saw Rolfe but apart from that until we caught up with Mike it was just strangers we passed. I was still amazed how many people in a very bad way we passed, who were being carried, on piggy back, not down but up, and I mean these people were in a very bad way. It made you realise even more how capable the hands we were in with the 360 team.
That reminds me earlier in the trek we had passed an Asian gentleman who (after baranco wall I think) had a slight headache and had had enough, he wanted airlifting out, the response not a problem it would take around about 7 hours to get here, if they could talk the Tanzanian air space authorities to allow a Kenyan chopper in and would probably cost (I think) around about £10 Grand…. It may have been twenty! He walked out, and down.
Even though we were heading down this was the first time I’d felt out of breath today, the long day was taking its toll, at one point we actually saw our camp, it was miles away. The fastest down to basecamp I believe was about 1 ¼ hours at that point I wasn’t even a third of the way. My porter kept finding me water, how I don’t know. We eventually scrambled down the rocks to the high camp we had gone through in the early hours, our camp was only about 30 mins from here, “home” was almost in touching distance.
As we approached camp we were met by Christoph and Samson with orange juice , I gave mine to my guide, he’d carried my bags and supported me up and down and still wouldn’t have a drop until I’d drank, people back home could learn a lot from these guys.
Camp, tent, Dee, fellow 360 trekkers, it was amazing to see them all, but I just wanted to sleep I collapsed in my tent, and before I even had chance to sleep Dee dragged me out (thanks chappers) for lunch I couldn’t tell you what it was I was wasted and ate and went back to my tent just to get 30 mins before I had to pack up I couldn’t believe it, I’d forgotten we were leaving for the lower camp today! I felt sorry for Olli no sooner had he got back we were off, I seem to remember he wasn’t best pleased.
Now I felt physically tired and still nauseous but had great friends around to pick up my mood. We set off and started the long walk to our final campsite. We were still on Kilimanjaro and the terrain was very rocky, we kept passing random abandoned wooden stretcher like vehicles with two wheels, a lot of them.(It turns out they were actually rescue stretchers, health and safety would have loved them)
Eventually the rocky landscape started to get greener and in the distance we saw the roofs of the building at our campsite, they just didn’t seem to get any closer no matter how far we walked.
When we eventually saw our tents they were a welcome relief, and we’d heard the camp manager may have a stash of beer. Sadly it turned out he only had bags of clear liquid, we all decided to wait one more day until back at the hotel. As was the norm now we had great banter in camp, food and cards and tonight reflection on what we had done, not surprisingly though everyone was soon in bed.
Day 9 Friday 11th September, The last morning under canvas and Kili was seen in all her glory, what a sight, the plan today was to get down as quick as possible, and celebrate. We were going to drop around 2000m today, I’d later discover this to be harder than I thought. We started out on flat terrain that soon started to drop away steeper and quicker and very uneven, Rolfe had warned us to eventually watch out for spikes that had held steps in place, when we found them we were glad he’d warned us. One word Lethal. Dirt tracks became rainforest steps that just seemed to infinitely drop down. It started to get foggy, no that was cloud we were descending through cloud.
We passed lots of groups taking it slowly, some of whom we had seen on summit day, one of which we heard say, look a group of old people, they must be parents, well this group of old people and parents has just kicked your arse on the downward trek.
We were dropping down the mountainside at what felt like an incredible pace, we had a short breather at Mwekahut camp but we were soon back on it. Now we were in the rainforest, and for the first time saw monkeys. His was a great excuse to stop for a breather I was dripping with sweat, the first time on the trek I’d really sweat, it was getting very humid in the forest. A quick breather and I caught our little breakaway group up, but was soon dropping back again , Dee kept up with the “youngsters” but I was starting to struggle I was just about keeping them in view. We left the rainforest track and made it onto a track/road I saw a tiny little girl probably my Toms age, she just appeared out of the bushes asking for chocolate. I gave her what I had, I wish it had been more, or pencils and paper or a toy but I had none.
My group had gone now I passed another of our smaller groups and the sound of civilisation was getting louder. Around the corner there was the gate and check out hut it was almost done. I could see our small group having gate photos I gave my all for one last push. I made it I was down I’d climbed Kilimanjaro and survived, we joyously walked to sign out, there were beer tents ! As we were queued to sign out I realised that I had underestimated our task at getting down quickly, the heat and our fast decent hit me and I started to blackout, I grabbed Ryan and just said “grab me mate” to whomever gave me a full sugar coke thank you and thank you to our “Canarican” Brent who force fed me his sweets. The sugar rush sorted me out and so did the beer or two. We said goodbye to Jobe, another of our fantastic support crew, jumped on our busses , with another beer or two, and returned to our hotel saying a fond farewell to the conquered Mountain and all her beauty that we left behind
My group had gone now I passed another of our smaller groups and the sound of civilisation was getting louder. Around the corner there was the gate and check out hut it was almost done. I could see our small group having gate photos I gave my all for one last push. I made it I was down I’d climbed Kilimanjaro and survived, we joyously walked to sign out, there were beer tents ! As we were queued to sign out I realised that I had underestimated our task at getting down quickly, the heat and our fast decent hit me and I started to blackout, I grabbed Ryan and just said “grab me mate” to whomever gave me a full sugar coke thank you and thank you to our “Canarican” Brent who force fed me his sweets. The sugar rush sorted me out and so did the beer or two. We said goodbye to Jobe, another of our fantastic support crew, jumped on our busses , with another beer or two, and returned to our hotel saying a fond farewell to the conquered Mountain and all her beauty that we left behind
Back at the hotel it was a little weird getting back to normality running water, showers (if you got in quick enough there was even hot water) and beer. Off into town (Moshi) for lunch at a fab Indian, no-one seemed tired, still flying high on adrenalin and Kili memories. That night we held our own little awards night the “Double D Awards”, with everything from Best altitude flatulence equalisation Award won by David (not me) to Mosquito expert and Best Knowledge won by Richard. We of course also got the real Kilimanjaro certificate. A celebratory meal at local restaurant before ending up in the night club “Glacier”. Let’s just say the music wasn’t that current, and they seemed to like Jacko, a lot. Some of us lasted longer than others, but none of us lasted as long as Brent and Mike, they took mine and Dee’s party animal crown.
Day 10 September 12th our final day was spent repacking our bags (mine was so much lighter now) a little shopping around Moshi, where my bartering failed when the shop keeper just put all my items back on the shelf, and the street trader I spoke to outside was threatened by a member of dads army with his 1920 rifle. Back to the hotel for lunch and drinks with the team in the hotel gardens. I’ve not really said much about the hotel, but it was the best building around that we saw, the staff were brilliant and no matter which drink you chose from the bar they all seemed to be $2.00. As the day went on more and more people joined us in the garden emotional good-byes were said as various members left for the airport. Then it was our turn and as we journeyed back to the airport Kili teased us with one last view as her majestic size took over the skyline one last time.
Day 10 September 12th our final day was spent repacking our bags (mine was so much lighter now) a little shopping around Moshi, where my bartering failed when the shop keeper just put all my items back on the shelf, and the street trader I spoke to outside was threatened by a member of dads army with his 1920 rifle. Back to the hotel for lunch and drinks with the team in the hotel gardens. I’ve not really said much about the hotel, but it was the best building around that we saw, the staff were brilliant and no matter which drink you chose from the bar they all seemed to be $2.00. As the day went on more and more people joined us in the garden emotional good-byes were said as various members left for the airport. Then it was our turn and as we journeyed back to the airport Kili teased us with one last view as her majestic size took over the skyline one last time.
The journey home was trouble free and seemed to fly past, an emotional good bye to Dee in London then it was the final leg home to see my little boys and Helen. Kili had been everything I expected, and more. She is a glorious beast and I will always remember the days that I took her on. Thank you Kilimanjaro for allowing me to climb you, thank you to everyone who made the trek possible, especially 360 Expeditions, and thank you to everyone who helped to raise £19,264 for my chosen charites. For now the adventure was over, what next, who knows maybe Everest. Now though time to enjoy family life and my memories of the greatest adventure in my life so Far.To be Contiuned ,and remember, "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving in an attractive well preserved body; rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly worn out, covered in scars and screaming “yahoo! What a ride!”
The End .......For Now !